A Week in London
A Week in London
Day One
We arrived at Heathrow after pleasant if exhausting flight and decided
to take the Underground into London since our hotel was very near the Russell
Square stop. This is our usual practice but this time it seemed more difficult
for some reason. The train was rather crowded with early morning commuters. And
they were, of course, polite but I'm sure they didn't appreciate all those
travelers and suitcases cluttering up the aisles. Next time we'll use the
AirBus.
We arrived at the Russell Hotel in about 45 minutes. It's right around
the corner from the Russell Square tube station.
We found the Russell very welcoming. The lobby is actually quite grand
with a beautiful staircase leading down to a comfortable sitting area. The hall
porter (concierge) met us immediately and filled us in on the hotel's layout. We
checked in a minute and "Bernard" had our bags waiting for us at our door when
we got up to our 5th floor room.
The room was fairly large with a good sized bathroom and a splendid view
of Russell Square.
After freshening up we decided to get out and walk around our new
neighborhood. We found it lovely and clean. Very much more like a "neighborhood"
than a large metropolis. After strolling through the nearby squares (Russell,
Tavistock, Queen’s, etc.) we found ourselves at the British Museum. Any
guidebook will describe the museum so I won't. But let me say if you go don't
miss the Rosetta Stone, Elgin Marbles, the Lindow Man, the mummies (and
everything else in the place).
In our jet lagged state we found the crowds of tourists a bit much so
retreated to the Museum Tavern across the street for a snack and a Guinness. Now
back to our room for my usual afternoon nap.
The Russell has several bars and restaurants in it: Fitzroy Dolls and
Virginia Wolfe’s were both very good. The bars are the King's Room (elegant) and
Benjamin's Bar (homey). My wife retired early that night but I ate at Virginia
Wolfe’s. A very busy place with good light food and a friendly and hard working
staff. I had the chicken sandwich and it was quite good (it's listed under
burgers on the menu). Finally into the adjoining Benjamin's Bar for a nightcap
(single malt scotch) and off to bed for a good night's sleep
The map references are for The Eyewitness Travel Guide:
LONDON
Day Two
The Russell is on Russell Square (map 5 B5) and from that location you
can walk (if you're a walker and we are walkers) to almost anywhere in London.
Coming out of the lobby you find yourself on Southampton Row. Turning left it's
a short and pleasant walk to High Holborn/Oxford St. (called New Oxford St. at
that point. Map 13 C1). If you carry on straight ahead Southhampton becomes
Kingsway which leads you to The Strand/Fleet St.
If you make a left at Oxford St. you find yourself on High Holborn
heading east toward the Museum of London in an area just north of The City. We
turned
right.
Following New Oxford St. westward you will cross Shaftesbury Ave which
will lead to Piccadilly Circus and Leicester Sq. We continued west toward Marble
Arch.
The Sherlock Holmes Museum is on Baker St. north of Marble Arch. The
Master's rooms have been created (one is tempted to say recreated) here at 221B
(careful-- that number is between 237&239) and will be of great interest to
anyone who is a fan of the Canon. Others may find the L5. entrance fee a bit
steep. We didn't eat at Mrs. Hudson's, the downstairs restaurant, but the menu
looked appealing and reasonably priced.
Afterward we headed to Madame Tussaud's, the famous waxworks. Apparently
it IS famous because the queue stretched around the corner and appeared to end
somewhere in Cornwall. We hadn't visit here on previous trips and wanted to this
time but, frankly, I wouldn't stand in a queue that long to see these people in
PERSON. Instead we hopped on the Bakerloo Line (the brown line) at Baker St. and
in minutes we found ourselves at Trafalger Square where we wanted sustenance
which we found in the most charming of quarters: The Cafe in the Crypt at the
wonderful St. Martin's in the Fields church.
When you arrive at Tralfalger Sq. (map 13 b3) stand in the square with
your back to Adm. Nelson’s back. Looking straight ahead you will see the
imposing National Gallery in front of you (to suggest what to see there would be
ridiculous. It's ALL wonderful and awe inspiring. Not a gallery to be scanned
lightly. Allow enough time for viewing.) St. Martins in the Field will be to the
gallery's right ( St. Martin's is worth a stop. The architecture will make
Americans feel right at home.) There are lunchtime and evening concerts there
and the Cafe in the Crypt serves good food and coffee drinks. Looking over your
left shoulder you can see Admiralty Arch and Buckingham Palace in the distance
down the Mall. If you head toward the Palace don't forget to walk through St.
James Park and or Green Park (my personal favorite).
From Trafalgar Sq. you can also head north along Charing Cross Rd. (it's
the street between the Natl. Gallery and St. Martin's) to Leicester Sq. Or north
on Haymarket to Piccadilly Circus. On the Strand traveling east you end up at
St. Paul's and the City or take Whitehall south to Parliament/Big
Ben/Westminster Abbey. Quite a convenient starting point is Trafalgar Square
.
We walked up Charing Cross for a leisurely stroll back to our hotel and
a little freshening up before dinner.
We decided to eat at Wagamama the Japanese noodle restaurant. We'd heard
good things about it from friends and wanted to find out for ourselves. After a
day of walking we still chose to walk to the restaurant (well, I told you we
were walkers). Upon leaving the hotel we noticed it was drizzling and that the
temperature had dropped considerably. Once again down to New Oxford St. and west
to Wagamama. (Reaching Oxford St. the drizzle had turned to sleet and by the
time we got to the restaurant we were walking through a heavy, wet snow.) It's
on Streatham St. (map13b1) parallel to New Oxford off Coptic St.
Wagamama was everything we'd heard. My wife likes minimalist design and
we both like Japanese food. For starters fried and steamed dumplings and for
dinner I had the spicy chicken and noodles and she had a rice and seafood dish.
Both excellent and filling. Two drinks each (Japanese beer for me and white wine
for her),appetizers, entrees and dessert & tea for L27. inclusive. The food
and service were excellent.
Afterward we walked down beautiful Shaftesbury Ave. to Neal St. and on
to Covent Garden. The snow had stopped and it had actually become a pleasant
evening. We walked around Covent Garden, window shopped and viewed St. Paul's
Church. It was a rather quiet evening and for a while we were actually alone in
the courtyard of the church. Faintly I heard a voice coming from the behind the
columns "Look at her a prisoner of the gutters......" The voice trailed off asI
hurried to the column. But there was no one there.
After a day like this we hopped on the tube at Covent Garden and headed
"home" to our warm beds for a well-earned nights rest.
Day Three
Today we're off to, first St. Paul's Cathedral. Once again we opted to
walk there. I love this city and walking is definitely the best way to see it.
The tube is good for extra long distance travel or nighttime excursions but on
all other occasions it's foot power for us.
St. Paul's is located in a part of London known as The City. It's a
fascinating area in and of itself. The financial heart of the city, where the
business is done. It also offers a view of some of ancient London since it is
built on the site of the original Roman settlement.
If you visit the cathedral pay particular attention to the inner and
outer dome (it weighs 64,000 tons), the whispering gallery and of course the
many statues and memorials inside. You'll find a cafe in the basement (one of
the best Cappuccinos in London).
We were determined from the outset to climb to the top of the Cathedral.
Or at least as far as we could go. I'm ten years older than my wife but we were
both huffing and puffing before long. We were happy to make it. We left some ten
year olds in the dust. I never knew if they just couldn't do it or if they just
didn't think it worth the effort. The views of the city (not to mention the
sheer satisfaction of doing it) made it worthwhile.
We rested in the inner dome's "whispering gallery" on the way up sharing
a few "I love you's" from opposite sides. Yes, it really works. Try
it.
After spending the morning exploring St. Paul's we were off for the
Tower of London. We'd been before but hadn't for one reason or another seen the
Crown Jewels. They are definitely a "must see" if you haven't already and would
bear another look if you have. They're all wondrous and spectacular and everyone
will have their own favorite. For me it was the "Scepter with the Cross." In
addition to the sheer beauty of the crowns and scepters the history is somewhat
overwhelming. As I stared at the scepter I could imagine it in the hand of
Charles II when it was presented to him in 1660.
After our visit with the Crown Jewels we hopped on the District Line at
Tower Hill Station and headed for Westminster and the Cabinet War Rooms. When
you step out of the station at Westminster you are at once greeted by the grand
and looming clock tower housing "Big Ben." I don't care how many times I've seen
it, that sight always stops me in my tracks. The very sight of one of the most
recognizable images in the world with all it's historical significance is awe
inspiring to say the least.
Coming out of the station if you make a right you come to Parliament St.
Another right will bring you to King Charles St. (the first left) and at the end
of it you will find yourself on the Clive Steps and the door of the Cabinet War
Rooms. Before entering look across the street (Horse Guards Rd.) and you'll see
a splendid view of the lake at the eastern end of St. James's Park.
I don't know why but the War Rooms seems to be one of the lesser known
sights in London. As many times as we've been, we never seemed to get there. Let
me say here and now that of all that I have seen in this awesome and inspiring
city this is, for me, it's most moving and inspiring sight. I won't spoil it for
those of you who haven't been yet. Suffice to say that as we began our walk
through the cellar rooms from which Churchill and the men and women at his
command waged war against Hitler the weight and gravity of war bore down upon
us.
At first we looked and listened with interest to the descriptions of the
deeds and sacrifices made by the Brits under the savage onslaught brought
against them by a madman bent on nothing less than their total destruction. The
small groups of school children talked and pushed and giggled the way children
will sometimes. The older adults smiled at times perhaps reminded by some
artifact of times gone by. Half way through the groups began to quiet down
though. The ambiance seemed to take on an almost sacred tone as one might feel
in a church or holy site. By the end of the tour people were wiping away tears,
many crying openly for reasons obvious or private
Churchill's own words could be heard on our headsets as sirens wailed
outside and bombs seemed to be bursting over our very heads "This was their
finest hour."
Afterward we walked slowly along Whitehall back toward Trafalgar Sq.
passing another of Winnie's old homes, 10 Downing St., the Horse Guards, the
Ministry of Defense, the Admiralty. We felt very moved, even somber amid all
this grandeur. We held hands as we walked not talking. We each had our own
feelings for those we loved who had sacrificed so much in that monstrous
atrocity we call, simply, World War II. I wonder, could we summon up the spittle
to do as much if called upon?
We walked all the way back to the Russell. We were tired both physically
and emotionally tonight. We decided to eat in the hotel's fine restaurant
Fitzroy Dolls. We toasted the brave and the bold with martinis and champagne.
And afterward slept a well earned night's sleep.
Day Four
Shopping day: I had promised my wife a full day of shopping in London
(in addition to any she would do between outings on other days) and Day Four was
the day. Unlike most men I do not abhor shopping. It's aimless browsing I don't
like. I like clothes and London offers some of the world's best men swear
shops.
We began on Old Bond St.: Lalique (where I was fortunate to find a
present for her upcoming birthday. A wonderful perfume bottle.) Ciro, Bally,
Gucci, Chanel, etc., etc. Then on through New Bond St. Next, to Burlington
Gardens. And then on to Regent St. from Piccadilly Circus to Oxford St. Now on
to Piccadilly and finally to Jermyn St. (Guinness, Guinness, I need a PINT.)
Liberty, Pink's, Burberry, Fortnum and Mason, Selfridges, Laura Ashley. The list
is endless. By mid afternoon with aching feet and melting credit cards we
finally were through. We headed, laden with our booty, homeward. Somehow we
found ourselves on Doughty St (Pronounced "Doubty" by locals) and the Dickens
House. In need of refuge and culture (after an afternoon of Hedonism) we decided
to stop. And were we glad we did. The Dickens House is a wonderfully peaceful
and welcoming respite from the modern age. It is the only one of Dickens London
homes to survive and I recommend it highly. Start off with the wonderful A/V
presentation as you relax in a comfy chair. See many original Dickens
manuscripts and other artifacts from this prolific genius as well as first
editions and letters. Well, worth the stop.
On our way back to the Russell we found ourselves a little hungry. (I
can't imagine why) We were lucky enough to find Cafe Romano on Grenville St.
right behind the hotel. What a find this little takeaway cafe was. We had a
delicious spicy chicken pasty, a dessert anda soft drink for under £2.00. If
you're in the neighborhood and hungry don't pass it up.
On the evening of Day Four we decided to eat at Wilton's on Jermyn St.
I've longed to dine at the 250 year old landmark and decided to throw caution
(and budget) to the wind and live it up. The food, the service, the club-like
atmosphere of this wonderful place were all I had hoped for. They treated us on
arrival like their best clients. Offering us an excellent table which ended up
being right next to the table of a Mr. Brett, who actually WAS Wilton's best
client. The evening was all one could hope for in London: tasteful,
sophisticated and very, very British. On a scale of 1 to 10 the food was a 10,
the service a 10, the atmosphere a 10 and the bill a 20. But I wouldn't trade it
for the world. It remains one of my fondest dining memories of London. And, yes.
I've gotten the credit card bill and I stand firm: Wilton's was
wonderful!
Travel Journal
Day Five
On Day Five we rose early for our usual sumptuous breakfast. The
Russell, by the way, serves one of the best hotel breakfasts we've had in
London. The food is served buffet style in the beautiful dining room of the
Fitzroy Dolls restaurant. One table held cereals and all the toppings. Another,
a vast selection of cheeses and breads. The hot serving trays offered wonderful
sausages and bacon, eggs, potatoes, mushrooms and tomatoes, black pudding and so
on. For buffet style dining the service was excellent. Our servers remembered us
after only one day. They were quick to bring us that cherished first pot of
coffee as soon as we were seated.
We soon began to recognize other guests we'd seen there (or the night
before at Benjamin's Bar) and to strike up conversations with our new
"neighbors."
The morning meal served at the Russell made the noontime meal not only
unnecessary but impossible. There actually were places we wanted to visit for
lunch but were unable to. We were simply too full from breakfast.
On this morning though we were off in a hurry. For this was the day of
The Oscar Wilde Walk. My wife and I are both Wilde fans and when we heard that
the "Original London Walks" offered a "Wilde" walk we were determined not to
miss it
We met our guide at the Green Park tube station and a good sized crowd
quickly assembled. The astonishing thing was the diversity of the group.
Europeans, Americans, Asians, Indians and even Londoners. It seems that true
genius transcends all cultures. I know Oscar would have been proud and
gratified.
Our guide, Alan, dressed as Mr. Wilde himself, took us on a grand tour
of "Oscar Wilde's London." He was well informed and very entertaining. If you
like Wilde or just want an entertaining and lively walk around St. James's don't
miss this walk. It the best £4.50 tour in London.
Afterward I was somewhat tired from all we'd been up to this past week
and treated myself to a luxurious and restorative afternoon nap. My nap time
(when I can manage the time) is one of my great pleasures. I can't always afford
the time at home so on holiday I splurge. Zzzzzzzz.
Waking up refreshed we decided this was our night to explore the
eccentric and lively Belgo Central. It's a Belgian restaurant on Earlham St. not
far from Covent Garden. The queue was rather intimidating to say the least when
we entered. Fortunately most of those queued up were parties of four or more and
we were called rather quickly.
We entered the (freight) elevator that goes to the massive dining area
of Belgo. In seconds we were seated at the long tables of this strange but
fascinating place. I mentioned to the manager that I'd heard a rumor they were
coming to Boston which, sadly, he squelched. Later, drinks arrived at our table
from him. A wonderfully personal touch in such a busy and "in" place in one of
the world's busiest cities.
My wife had the mussels (it's the specialty of the house) and I had the
wild boar sausages. Both wonderful. White wine for the lady and delightful
Belgian beer for me. Both wonderful as well.
One word of caution: Belgo can be smoky. If you are nonsmokers (which we
are) you may find it a bit much. We were lucky. We ended up seated next to
nonsmoking neighbors on both sides.
Day Six
This was to be our last full day in London (at least for this trip) so
we decided to make a journey "out of town" to nearby Hampstead. Leaving the
Russell we walked the short distance around the corner to St. Pancras Station
and the Northern Line (Edgeware Branch). The station itself was originally built
as the Midland Grand Hotel in 1874. It is one of London's most beautiful rail
stations. Imposing in it's extravagant red brick gothic front. (Actually the
station is behind the former hotel. It's 100 foot high roof is worth a look
while you're waiting for your train.)
In a few minutes we were on the Northern Line speeding along past places
like Camden Town (Isn't that where Bob Cratchit lived?), Chalk Farm and Gospel
Oak on our way to Hampstead.
At Hampstead we exited the station to find that most of the star sights
are within easy walking distance. Well Walk and Flask Walk make for a charming
stroll. Burgh House on New End Square features a local history museum. On the
other side of town you'll find Fenton House on Hampstead Grove which has
marvelous gardens as well as a collection of early keyboard instruments. At the
opposite end of the street is Whitestone Pond it's white stone marker declaring
that Holborn is 7 km (4.5 miles) away. Nearby Jack Straw's Castle offers good
food and drink and splendid views of the Heath from the second floor
bar.
This day was sunny and beautiful but the night before had been rainy so
the Heath was very muddy. Not being people who are easily put off we trudged
right along through the muddy, winding paths across this wonderful oasis so near
to the great metropolis and yet so distant from all civilization when you are in
the center of it. There were very few tourists out on this particular day. Only
a few hearty souls like ourselves and then mostly locals walking their dogs. The
views of London are quite spectacular from here. On one vantage point we found a
stand with a representation of London's buildings to make it easier to pick out
particular sights. Binoculars would have come in handy but we were (with the
help of some local residents) able pick out St. Paul’s and a few other
spots.
At the North end of the Heath is Kenwood House. Kenwood House is a
wonderfully magnificent mansion remodeled in 1764 by Robert Adam (from a house
originally built on the site in 1616). It features works by Vermeer, Turner, Van
Dyck and so on. But it also features one of my favorite paintings and the
house's star attraction: Rembrandt's Self Portrait. Even without the art work
the house would be worth a look. The rooms and furnishings are
beautiful.
Afterward we walked the long but pleasant walk through Highgate to
Highgate Cemetery.
If you like cemeteries Highgate is one you will find fascinating. The
graves and tombs are at once eerie and beautiful. The Egyptian Avenue is a
virtual "street" of family vaults that look like something out of a Charles
Addams cartoon. Seeing some of the more overgrown graves in the less traveled
parts of the cemetery will make one understand why one wouldn't want to be here
after dark.
Many famous Londoners are "sleeping" here (according to the inscriptions
no one died...) Ralph Richardson, George Eliot and many more. Strangely, Karl
Marx's grave is one of the more extravagant. Topped by a gigantic bust of the
founder of Communism and inscribed "Workers of the World Unite." Apparently the
class struggle ends at the point of death.
Later we walked through the most residential sections of Highgate on our
way back to Hampstead. This certainly isn't a part of England many visitors to
London would ever see. Homey and charming (and, of course, affluent) would best
describe these lovely neighborhoods.
On our return to central London one of those unexpected, little things
happened that, for me, make travel to England worthwhile. After leaving
Hampstead Station our train suddenly stopped in one of the pitch dark tunnels
leading back to the city. It had obviously lost all power and we sat waiting in
our seats a minute or two wondering what was wrong. Our fellow passengers,
mostly local Brits heading into town for a day of shopping or whatever, seemed
totally unconcerned. They continued their conversations as if nothing was out of
the ordinary. We knew that we had little to fear but being stuck in a dark
tunnel in a foreign country is different somehow from being in the same
situation at home. I don't know why. It just is.
After a few minutes a very dignified, very British voice came over the
train's intercom. "Ladies and gentlemen. We are about to perform an emergency
maneuver that may result in a sudden and violent jolt. Please remain in your
seats and rest assured that we have matters well in hand."
In a moment we were suddenly and violently jolted and in another moment
we were on our way again as if nothing had happened. I'm not certain why I told
this story. Maybe it was the very "Britishness" of the incident. I don't know. I
remember thinking at the time: "God, I love this place."
By the time we returned to Russell Square in the late afternoon it had
begun to rain. We retired to our room for a much needed rest after such a full
day of walking.
Our plan was to take the Jack the Ripper Walk. I knew without her having
to tell me that I'd be doing this one alone. Joan was exhausted and needed a
night of rest. By now the rain was coming down quite hard. But not hard enough
to stop me from this walk. I'd been wanting to take this particular walk for a
long time.
The Sunday evening "Jack" walk is led by none other than Donald Rumbelow
the acknowledged expert on the subject of "Saucy Jack" and no amount of rain was
going to stop me. Oh, look, lightning. And, my, it is getting foggy. No matter.
Off I go.
Naturally, I decided to walk to the Tower Hill station where the tour
meets. I hadn't eaten
yet but felt certain I'd pass a pub along the way. I didn't. The City is
actually somewhat deserted on a Sunday night. All the bankers and brokers were
already home in their dry, warm abodes. But not me. I'm walking along The
Victoria Embankment in a severe thunderstorm on a collision course with "old
leather apron."
To top it off I began to get hungry. A drink wouldn't be bad either.
Still no pubs to be found. I'd walked this way before. It never seemed so dark
and never this wet. Luckily my raincoat was keeping my upper body dry but my
feet were wet. Even my waterproof Rockports were soaked.
Suddenly a car pulled up along side on the deserted road. Now what?
Peering through the rain and fog I could see the outline of a ........BLACK
LONDON TAXI. Out of the window the smiling face of the driver beamed out at me.
"Need a lift?"
In seconds I was in the safety of the cab's back seat. The driver
understood my predicament with little help from me. I was whisked down the
street to a pub (the only one open apparently) almost across from the Tower Hill
station. Seeing me safely to the pub's door he made sure I knew exactly where I
was and where the entrance to the station was. Grateful, I tipped
lavishly.
This pub might not be one I would have chosen under differing
circumstances. It was one of a chain of pubs. But tonight it was welcoming.
Roast lamb, a Guinness and a view of Tower Bridge. I'm all right now. And no
need to hurry. Surely the walk would be canceled. Who would go on a Jack the
Ripper Walk on a night like this?
When I got to the tube stop I found out. There were already nearly
thirty people who were as "mad" as I waiting for Donald. We ended up as a group
of 35. Small I found out from our host. On some walks he draws 250.
The walk was memorable. Not just because of Donald either. Strolling
through Whitechapel on a stormy, foggy, dreary night in search of the world's
most famous murderer. What could be better?
Donald led his intrepid group onward through the rain. Down narrow
alleyways that have changed little since Jack did his handiwork here over a
century ago. Prostitutes and winos still frequent the dark doorways of St.
Botolphs Street. The homeless still find shelter in the same mission that
offered refuge to Jack's victims. The Ten Bells Pub is the same as it was then
although the clientele has changed considerably. Mostly tourists (business is
good) who gawk at the pictures and clippings over a pint. Some expound on their
pet theory. Someone always disputes it as "highly unlikely." And everyone asks
everyone else the same questions: "What's the attraction? Why are you here?" And
no one ever has a good answer.
I liked the walk very much. I would go again if the chance arises. Back
home I'm the envy of my friends. "Jack the Ripper!" I tell a friend in a Boston
bar, pointing at my foot. "That shoe stepped on a cobblestone that was trod upon
by Jack the Ripper!" He just stared at my foot and shook his head. I wonder what
he was really thinking?
Day Seven
Our last day. We were sad to be leaving but ready to go home. Our own
bed and all that. We ate our usual breakfast at the Russell. Our last one. On
this trip at any rate. We said our good-byes to fellow guests and to staff
members who had been particularly kind to us. The wonderful servers from
breakfast (who remembered our coffee without us even asking for it) refused our
offers of a gratuity. Before going out to meet the AirBus to Heathrow we passed
our tube passes to the porters. A free ride home tonight. A Guinness instead of
a ticket. Cheers!
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